El Tunco Beach, El Salvador

El Tunco Beach

 El Tunco beach is located in El Savador. We hadn’t planned  on visiting it until later, but it turns out that bus connections are very complicated between Copan and Rio Dulce. So we scrapped our plans to visit Guatemala’s Caribbean coast and decided to hop a shuttle to El Salvador instead. The journey took about seven hours and we were lucky to only share our spacious van with two other people. It was a beautiful trip and completely hassle-free…with the exception of being harassed by Guatemalan police. 


They stopped us after we crossed the border and demanded to check our passports; claiming we didn’t have the correct documentation. We’d only been given a temporary transit visa (valid 3 days) to visit Copan, which the immigration officer had reclaimed when we’d passed through the checkpoint. We went back to speak with him and found out that the police have absolutely no authority to view our passports or detain us – they’d simply been throwing their weight around out of boredom/in hopes of a bribe. 

Otherwise the ride was pleasant. The Guatemala-El Salvador border crossing was a breeze and I instantly noticed differences between the two countries. People in El Salvador were taller, the highways wider, the countryside devoted to larger-scale farms.  We passed through San Salvador at dusk...it looked much more polished than its  rather poor reputation would suggest.

Arrived in El Tunco around 9 pm and had some difficulty finding a hotel. Finally settled on El Tunco Lodge – a bit tacky with its giant Tiki figures and thatched roof cabanas, but also close to the beach and comfortable with a wonderful pool, hammocks, and communal kitchen.

Tienda, El Tunco

Though only 45 minutes from the capital of San Salvador the tiny beach community was incredibly tranquil. Only on the weekend did it fill up with thumping music and raucous crowds of city-dwellers looking for a good time.  The beach, along with several others up and down the coast, is famous for surfing. Our neighbor in Antigua, who is from Australia and quite serious about the sport, gave the area a good report. We only body - boarded, which wasn’t ideal. The waves broke quite close to the shore and the current made it somewhat difficult to paddle out (a challenge not exactly helped by ill-fitting rental fins). Regardless, it was a great place to swim; there were some lovely sunsets, a laid-back atmosphere, and an excellent variety of cheap food. We mostly gorged on fish tacos (four tacos + beer = USD $5) and papuses (comprised of beans and cheese grilled inside a tortilla, USD $.50 each). 

El Tunco at dusk

 There’s not much else to say about our stay in El Tunco. We swam, we ate, we drank coffee on the deck of Dale Dale Café overlooking the mangroves. It was a true vacation.

FISH TACOS!!! Cost: $4. Taste: Priceless.

Last Papusa stop at the El Salvador - Guatemala border

Street Art in San Jose

“There are many Nicaraguans here”, the taxi driver told us in Spanish, sweeping his leathery hand out the window to indicate the derelict suburb we were driving through.  “They come to work and then send money home. Many, many come here.”

I asked him how the Costa Ricans (referred to as “Ticos”) felt about the immigration.  “The culture is the same, the language is the same,” he responded, shaking his head. “But they aren’t educated. People look down on them.”

We’d already discussed the upcoming Semana Santa (Holy Week) holiday and been warned that the roads would be extremely busy.  Advising us to plan ahead, our kindly driver offered to swing by the bus station on the way to our hostel, so we could buy tickets in advance.

“These men are from the Dominican Republic. It’s easy for them to get a visa. They sell drugs, like this man, look…crazy”.  He was staggering across the road, dreadlocks, clothing reduced to greasy rags, a glazed look in his eyes.  “They also bring women and sell them for prostitution”.  I saw the women too, leaning in a doorway with frosted glass, tight clothing, and garish makeup.

We didn’t stay in San Jose long enough to form much of an impression. Overall, I was disappointed. There were drab concrete buildings, fast food chains, pigeons.  On one street, a casino door creaked open, releasing the smell of stale smoke and a middle-aged foreigner with two scantily-clad young women scurrying to keep up in their high heels.  We returned to our hostel – the former ambassador’s residence – to find cockroaches scuttling out of the woodwork, unhindered by our presence.  “I called the fumigator”, the proprietress said with a sheepish smile, “he’s supposed to come tomorrow”. Thankfully, she let us change rooms.

Criticisms aside, I’m sure San Jose has some hidden charms, for those inclined to stay and look. There are universities and parks where break-dancers congregate.  There is also some fantastic street art, which is why I decided to devote an entire entry to a city where I spent a grand total of 1.5 days.  There were colorful murals splashed across walls, cartoon figures painted on trash cans, abstracts sprayed across concrete barriers and on the faded walls of condemned buildings.

Which brings me to a favorite debate: Can graffiti be considered art or is it simply an act of vandalism? I’m not talking about a few obscenities scrawled over the window of a city bus, but rather work that, while perhaps reflecting discord with current events also has a deeper social message.  The website RECLAIMYOURCITY.NET states that “urban public spaces are reserved for those who have enough money. Advertising dominates the urban landscape, and we are constantly bombarded with slogans from multinationals everywhere we go. Architecture and the streets are shaped by commercial interests, not by the residents of the city. It is impossible to avoid, the public have no access to these spaces, that is, unless we claim them for our own.”  So why not create a public space where artists are free to experiment? This can not only enhance a rather bland cityscape, but also provide people with a creative outlet to express themselves.